Solid Plastic Window/Door Frames
Qualifications are as same as wood, but better:
– Stronger than wood, able to be chiseled and smoothly polished,
– Good impact resistance,
– Not rotten, not decayed, not enlarged, and no mixture of sawdust or paper pulp,
– Not twisted, even in high temperature,
– Tough, lasting, and able to withstand the bright sunlight,
– Waterproof, water and humid resistant, able to be put and steeped in the water,
– Not eaten by termite,
– Able to be installed in both dry and wet conditions
New Innovation of Door Frames and Window Frames
Frames are made from mixed plastic/polyester to be as strong as wood, and they can replace wood well. They have solid substance throughout as same as wood and strength. They can be bended and sprung back, have ingredients of absorbed UV ray that make them able to withstand the sunlight, heat, humidity, wet, and can be put and steeped in the water. They are not twisted, not contracted, not enlarged, not decayed in every condition of climate, not eaten by termite and wood borer. They can be hammered and knocked in at the hinge . They can be screwed and sawed as same as wood, withstand to impact, can be used both inside and outside the place, can be screwed at any spot, and have solid substance throughout. The installation of work is not different from wood They have strength and can be bended while installing, and sprung back when released. They can withstand the heat of higher than 100 degree Celsius (Water Boiling Point) without being soften as it happens to general plastic frames which will be soften and twisted at the temperature of 70 degree Celsius. They withstand the sunlight well and are in stable shape in the hot weather. They withstand the wet and humidity in rainy season, being not contracted in the dry and cold weather in the winter. They can be screwed and hammered into. However, as plastic is harder than wood that its substance can absorb the nails more , it is therefore, necessary to use the drill before hammering the nail into it which will help hammer more easily. They can be sawed as same as wood by circular(buzz) saw and wood saw.
Comparison of Qualifications of Frames
Synthetic Plastic Frame Authentic Frame
1. Lasting painted , non-swollen color, neatly smooth color, beautiful throughout the age of color. 1. Well connected in the first period. In the long-run, the color becomes inflatable swelling, being dotted or wave, not smooth, rough arising from humidity inside the wood comes outwardly.
2. Less absorbed color, not consume a lot of color, able to be painted by every kind of color and undercoat with every kind of color. 2. Much absorbed color, consume more color and paint, able to use specific color of wood only.
3. At the area of seam of the frame’s right angle, painted color won’t break up from each other because the frame substance won’t contract. 3. At the area of the frame’s right angle, color will break up from each other because of the contraction of wood.
4. Not twist, not bend, not contract or not be swelling both before and after installation 4. Twist, bend and contract or be swelling both before and after installation.
5. After installation, there is no gap of crack between cemented wall and frame. 5. There are gaps between cemented wall and frame because of the contraction of wood. The size of gap depends on the substance of wood.
6. Easily installed. Every frame, when installed, will shape right angle of 90 degrees of every angle. Every frame is, therefore, not necessary to start the new installation again. It is therefore, installed faster than authentic wood. 6. It might not gain 90 degrees on every frame because it has to be nailed when composing of wood angles. Some frames have to have space of inner angle so as to get the right angle which will take time to fix the degree.
7. It can be installed outdoor in the case that there are not enough storages. 7. It cannot be left outdoor as it will be swelling, twist and bend .
8. Pintle Knob, Hinged Groove can be used by router for cutting groove as same as wood. 8. Router can be used to groove the pintle knob for hinged groove.
9. A chip arising from negligence or damaged by a hit can be easily repaired by using epoxy putty materials 9. A chip is also repairable, but whether the cracks will be smoothed or broken in the long-run depend on the contraction or blister of wood.
Steps in the Wet Installation : Using the Wooden Stretch
1. Prepare the frames by laying them down on smooth floor in order to hammer the nail into the wooden stretch at least at 3 spots namely: The 1st spot measured from the beam downward 70 cm. The 2nd spot measured from the top downward 140 cm. The 3rd spot measured at the end of frames’ leg. Or divide them into 3 equal channels approximately. The reason for stretching across in the middle at 2 spots because polymer frames are softer and more flexible(bending) than the wood one. In the case that there is the pressure of cement pouring and if the stretcher is not well enough , it will cause the curve inwards the frames from the weight of the poured cement, which when installing the door, it has to be much sharpen. In hammering the nails into stretcher , it should be hammered in vertical position with the frame. it should not be hammered slantingly as it will be crack or broken in any moment, and it should not use the nail of 3-inches size to hammer the stretcher as there is a limited cross-sectional area of the edge of frame, of which it will cause cracks if it is used by big-size nail and if there is no leading drill. If it is hammered without leading drill, it is required that it uses a small- size nail, such as 1, 1.5 or 2 inches.
2. After stretching the wood, it shall hammer the nail along the groove line behind the frame in order to latch onto cement, by using a 3-inches nail, hammering it in the middle of the groove(It is recommended that leading drill by auger before hammering the nail for quick action and to ease the problem of crack if more errors have occured. Or it can be done without leading drill. There are 2 types of hammering namely: Hammering the nail into the frame, being vertical with the frame, about 1.5 – 2 cm. depth. After that, bending or slanting the nail . 2. Hammering by slanting the nail at 45 degrees, then hammer the nail accordingly, around 1.5 cm. depth.
3. Installation of frame, in preparing for pouring out of cement, we can use the principle of sustainability as same as the wood works
Steps in the Wet Installation of Frame, in the Case of Using Iron Structure Mixed with Wood
Prepare the frame by putting the frame evenly on the smooth floor in order to lay down the spliced iron to mesh with it. The size of iron to be used shall be the iron box of 2 X 2 inches with the thickness of 3.2 mm., or 1.5 X 3 inches with the thickness of 3.2 mm. There are 2 types of the use of spliced iron namely: Spliced iron only for legs, vertical frame of 2 legs, by using wire being tied up iron inner side of splicing iron, 1 piece of each side and each of 150 cm. long, spliced in the middle of the frame’s leg, leaving the remaining area as same equal space, tied up by wire at 2 spots. Tie up the end of the iron at both ends, no tidying up in the middle. At the end of the frame’s leg, it shall be opened wide by stretched wood, after pouring cement in. When cement is dry and stiffen, remove the iron out by cutting the wire. This will get the frame with straight line, being easily installed at the door.
Steps in the Wet Installation of Frame : In Case of Using Solid Iron
Prepare the frame by putting it down as flat as smooth floor, use the iron block with the size 2X2 inches or 1.5 X 3 inches, with the thickness of 3.2 mm., joining the iron to be rectangle frame and bound with the square frame across the door. The size of frame should be attached exactly to the inner side of the frame, both the inner side of the frame’s pole and the upper beam. In the Installation of joining with the frame, we can use the wire tied up at 3 spots namely, tying up in the middle of the frame’s beam 1 spot, tying up from the end of the frame’s leg upwards 50 cm. The benefit of this joining is that it will speed up the operation to be faster than any other ways, gaining the accuracy of the frame’s line certainly.
The Benefits of Using the Spliced Iron
– When the cement dries down and strengthen , removal of iron structure from the frame will be made easily, by just cutting the wire.
– Not necessary to repair the frame’s surface resulting from hammering the nail.
– Shorten the time of installing the frame.
– Shorten the time of installing the door considerably.
– Iron structure can be installed all the time.
– Obtain the accuracy.
Notes of Caution in Using the Solid Polymer Frames
– In hammering the nail in order to sustain or hold on the object, do not use the nail that is longer than 2 inches, nail at the narrow area and the edge of ridge as it might cause the crack and chip to the object.
– At the back side of the frame, we can use the 3-inches nail, hammering it along the track without leading drill. If leading drill is done, it will help the hammering to go faster and lower the risk of erroneous hammering that might cause some cracks.
– If cracked, nicked or subsided resulting from the hit, the material that can be applied for repairing is the putty used for general car. Epoxy putty AB of Bosny or other materials can also be used for repairing the wood.
– Pintle Knob, Hinged Groove can be made by using a small router or trimmer. Extraction can also be efficiently used, but it will be slower.
– Installation of hinge can be made by tightening the screw to hold on the hinge, without leading drill. Be careful that, in drilling the edging bolt, its rim may crack if the leading drill has not been done first.
– Nail’s hole resulting from removing the nail out which causes the convex track, can be repaired by hammering it slightly until it becomes flat. As a result, size of the nail’s hole will be much smaller, being helpful for easier surface repairing or painting.
– In moving the frame, as the frame has been firmly assembled from the factory at 90 degrees (not the same as loosely assembled which has to be newly assembled again), it shall, therefore, be careful not to hold on the only one-sided frame to move on its side as it might cause the breaking of its angle. If it is necessary to move by this way, please hold on the frame’s leg far from the frame angle not exceeding 50 cm.
– The frame can be painted by every kind of paint, but it should be undercoated before painting as same as other general paintings.
– It can be sawn by general cutting tools, and it can also be cut by grinder to finish the surface.
– In piling up the frames, the frames can be piled up to 2 meters and it should always be laid down on the smooth and flat area. It can be put out in the sun, got out in the rain, durable to water, not swollen, twisted, contracted both before and after installation. Do not put down the bigger frame on the smaller one as it could break the fastened string that might cause damages to the frame’s leg.
– In the wet installation, it will be the same as installing wood, but it has to be more stretchy nailing than that of the wooden frame because the polymer frame is softer than the wooden one. If we want to install it much faster, it is recommended to use iron frame tightened inside the frame and tied up by wire. When cement is stiffened, just cut the wire and then
(Translation)
remove it out definitely. In the dry installation, we can use plastic or iron cleat. The bolt’s hole after drilling shall be undercoated by general coating putty or car body putty.
The Dry Installation of Frame
The dry installation of frame is the installation taken after casting of the corner bead and the lintel beam, which have to be prepared in part of cement frame(corner bead and lintel beam) and is bigger than the width and length of overall frame. The size of track left depends on the neat of frame making, and the making of right angle mark to help facilitate stuccoing, both in vertical and horizontal lines. If it is exactly right, it should leave a space of the frame at 5 mm.. But if the work is not neat, it should leave a space of the frame at 15 mm. or more.
If the cement work is neat, it will run slowly, but it will shorten the time of installation of the frame.
If the cement work is rough, it will finish fast, but the installation of the frame will run slowly.
Holding on the Frame and Materials Jointly Used.
1. Plastic or Wooden Cleat
2. Self-Tapping Screw No.12 upwards, 3-inches length in case of leaving a space of 15 mm., and 2 1/2- inches length in case of leaving a space of 5 mm.
3. Supporting sheet to control the space left between cement frame and frame, can be used in various means such as, wooden sheet, board, paper, plastic and iron. But wood is generally used as it can be easily sharpened and adjusted by sharpening it to be a petty wedge shape.
4. Filled or putty materials such as, car body putty, wood putty and other chemical putty.
Steps to be taken in the installation in Brief
1. To begin with drilling a hole to string screw to latch onto the frame. The drilled hole has a size as big as the size of thread of screw, far from each angle of 20 cm., and from the leg’s end upwards of 20 cm. each. The remaining parts leave a space of 40 – 50 cm., including vertical legs of 5 spots each and drill 1 spot of the horizontal line in the middle, totaling 3 horizontal spots, each of the drilled hole is required to pit the hold’s end by a big auger as big as the head of tapping screw in order to sink the screw’s head into the frame’s inner layer after firm tightening. Pitting into 1 cm. depth or as deemed suitable of the remaining screws upon firm tightening.
2. Put the frame on the cement frame at the required level by using the small auger that can drill through the frame’s drilled hole to make a mark.
3. Remove the frame out of cement frame and then drill the marked cement in order to be inlaid with the cleat.
4. When the cleat is already laid in, put the frame exactly on the inlaid mark. Tight screw loosely to hold up the frame at this stage. When every screw has already been put in place, tight screws firmly and put the supporting sheets at the screw’s foots to adjust the space.
5. After adjusting the space , fill cement into the track that has been left empty. If the left -empty track is narrow, fill in the cement fully first and then make a groove on the track’s surface, followed by silicone or other chemical putty.
6. The above-mentioned installations are not the fixed requirements. They are just the basic guidelines that are adaptable as deemed skillful and appropriate.
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